San Sebastian, Puerto Vallarta

 

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Up behind Puerto Vallarta in the Sierra Madre Mountains is an old mining town that has a completely different atmosphere than Puerto Vallarta. At 4,500 ft. with pine trees, the air is crisp and clear and at night it can be quite cold.
In the surrounding valley you'll find cattle, corn and coffee plantations. This local coffee is excellent and you can sample and purchase it in town.
Founded in 1605, San Sebastian del Oeste was one of the gold and silver mining centers of Mexico. At one time a provincial capital of 40,000 people, you will find it strangely deserted with only about 600 people living there now.
Puerto Vallarta, San Sebastian
The Plaza, it's Bandstand and surrounding buildings are typical of the colonial period.

The mines were, in part, responsible for the start of Puerto Vallarta. Then know as Las Peñas and consisting of just a few huts at the mouth of the Rio Cuale, it was used to supply the mines with salt which was taken by mules up to San Sebastian and other mines in the High Sierras and used in the smelting process. The silver and gold from the mines was sent, again by mule train through Guadalajara and Mexico City to Veracruz, where it was sent, once a year, to Spain

Sebastian church, Puerto Vallarta San Sebastian, Puerto Vallarta
The church, dedicated to San Sebastian, was originally built in the 1600s but was rebuilt after an earthquake in 1868.
The mines are long gone, although the ruins of them are still there, some distance from the town
 
It is a joy to wander around in this is very peaceful town, which has changed little in hundreds of years. More Photos
There are a few restaurants in town but not many places to stay. One great restaurant is Montebello, an Italian Restaurant run by my old friend Coco and her husband Walter. If you face the Town Hall (on the east side of the square) her place is down the side street on the right, Pipila # 11, call 297-2883 or ask anyone. Open 1-9pm, closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
A short distance from town is the the Hacienda Jalisco, once the headquarters of the mining company, beautifully restored by expatriate Bud Acord, where you can stay, maybe in the same room used by Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor. See below.
  Getting There

By bus, two hours, cost 65 pesos.
Three ATM Red Line busses leave every day to Talpa de Allende from the corner of Calle Lucerna and Calle Havre, red on the MAP in Colonia Versalles, at 9AM, 2:30PM and 6:30PM. Two Blue Line busses at 6:30Am and 4:30PM leave from behind Plaza Las Glorias, blue on the MAP. You can purchase your ticket there when you leave or purchase the tickets at least one day in advance. The busses do not go all the way, but stop at La Estancia, on the way to Mascota, where the side road goes to San Sebastian. It was usual to then hitch a ride from someone going there, now there are 8 taxis at La Estancia to take you the rest of the way. From La Estancia back to PV at 9am, 10am and 7pm (Red) 11:30am and 3:15pm (Blue).

They also have a tour by land on Monday, Wednesday & Friday, cost US$76 per person. Info.
Superior Tours will take you for US$28 per person, if you can get 10 people together (the whole van is US$280 min) - Info Click Here

You can also drive there yourself, with the new road and bridge about two hours - see Map.


 

Staying There

At this moment the Hacienda Jalisco is the best place to stay. A wonderful old colonial Hacienda, built 170 years ago by the Spnish, with tall ceilings and a fireplace in every room - it gets cold at night. There is no electricity, evenings are lit by oil lamps and candles, there's no telephone.
Many famous people have stayed here in the past.
Rates for Hacienda Jalisco are 770 pesos per person, in the summer, including breakfast and dinner, or 550 pesos with just breakfast.
In the winter 820 pesos incl. breakfast & dinner, or 650 pesos with just breakfast.
A chauffeured vehicle or horses are also available for hire. Private transport to and from Puerto Vallarta is available.
No children under 12 years old and no dogs allowed.
Web Page.
 

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